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Cheap and nasty — the real cost of throwaway fast fashion

A reflection on changing shopping habits and how cheap sites are turning us into unthinking consumers.

The first dress that I remember was made for me when I was five. My first Holy Communion dress was a fairy princess creation in pearl-coloured crystalline with a gathered skirt that fell halfway down my thigh, with a wide satin ribbon that tied around my middle into a bow at the back.

There was a Peter Pan collar, edged with an exquisite handmade Chantilly lace, which came off the outer cape of my christening gown – a nice touch from my ever-thoughtful mama.

My only regret was that my more glamorous cousin, Sharon, older by four years and taking her first Holy Communion with me, was dressed in exactly the same dress, sans the special lace. Her collar and bodice were embellished with plush white velvet ribbon, which was also used for the waistband that fastened with hooks at the back.

My dress was made by next-door auntie Mrs Singh, who wore her measuring tape around her neck and had a bracelet of straight pins that she deftly threaded through excess fabric, miraculously avoiding multiple stabbings.

At our final fitting, cousin Sharon ran a finger down the luscious velvet, twirling to examine her perfect almost 10-year-old self in the glass. I look so grown-up, she said. Rather haughtily, now that I look back on it six decades later, and not as entranced by the splendour of her.

The crystalline addition had been specially ordered by the material auntie from Amods, our local general dealer, and was touched with reverence when it arrived, a bolt of shimmering perfection.

Our matching reflective patent leather Mary Janes had been bought at John Orr’s in Pietermaritzburg on a special shopping trip. All our “good clothes” shopping was done in the big city, a leisurely three-hour drive from our home in what was then Northern Natal.

My mother packed a picnic basket for the trek from Ladysmith to Pietermaritzburg, to be eaten at a stone table on the side of the road: ubiquitous boiled eggs, soggy tomato sandwiches, Eet-Sum-Mor biscuits and a flask of tepid tea – unlike the pots of biryani, roti rolls and samoosas, complete with pickles and served on real plates, that accompanied my Durban cousins when Uncle R drove them to us. Pragmatic mama called it “taking things just too far”.

This special first Holy Communion shopping trip included ribbons for my hair, lacy knee-high socks for Sharon and me, and sailor suits for my brothers, Anton and Shaun.

My voile veil had been attached to mama’s wedding tiara – a precious thing that was a crucial prop in my childhood dress-up wardrobe. An angel, my father said when he saw me. My mother cried on cue. (Scenes in movies designed to move you to tears are made for people like my ma.) She hugged me, trying to stop her mascara running.

Dad bundled us into our olive-green Ford Corsair and we were off, me in my perfect dress, the image of which is still as clear to me in my mind’s eye as on that glorious 1963 summer day.

Some overseas online retailers are exploiting tax loopholes and are therefore able to keep prices extremely low. (Photo: iStock; Price tag and barcode graphics: Freepik)



A changing world

Today, more than six decades later, we learn from the United Nations that the fashion industry contributes considerably to climate change and is responsible for 8% to 10% of global emissions.

Someone told me they were darning a favourite old jersey, fixing a moth hole in the wool, and I thought, that’s unusual in this throwaway age, where we’re obsessed with fast fashion, preferring the quick turnover of trends, the move towards cheap, mass-produced clothing, with new lines constantly released.

If you shop online, then you’ve probably heard of the Chinese-owned e-commerce site Temu. You download an app and start shopping. (There are apparently more than 30 million new downloads every month, making it the number-one shopping app in Apple’s App Store and the Google Play Store.) Not without consequences, though.

South African Revenue Service (SARS) commissioner Edward Kieswetter will tell you that tax losses resulting from online retailers using import loopholes have reached R3.5-billion.

He talks of the unfair advantage online retailers have, and how SARS has to rethink its rules to collect tax from Chinese retailers such as Shein and Temu. Exploiting tax loopholes allows these shopping sites to keep product prices ridiculously low.

My Communion frock fabric probably cost about R2 in 1963, equivalent to about R220 today. Add next-door auntie’s fee, cotton, buttons, trim and (in Sharon’s case) soft velvet ribbon, and that dress would have cost about R4 then, or R440 in today’s money, possibly more.

You can buy a dress on Temu or Shein for half that today. I saw, advertised on Temu, a striped V-neck cami dress for R171, a paisley print crisscross dress for R181 and a solid colour halterneck frock for R150.

How? How can you source material and the trimmings, add labour and get a dress made for that insanely small sum – even factoring in economies of scale?

The instant coffee I drink has gone from R79 a jar in 2020 to R199 today.

And so, this reverse trend in e-commerce shopping from these brands is perplexing. A friend warned that these companies are mining our data. Another told me that the exploitation of children (child labour), allowed for these low prices (I could find no reliable reports on this).

There is a small cohort of us who will not shop on these sites because we think they hurt local economies and contribute in large measure to climate change through cheap, badly made, throwaway fast fashion.

For me, there’s an added component – these cheap sites turn us into unthinking, grasping consumers who often buy things we don’t need because they’re so cheap. Hey, we can throw it away if it doesn’t work.

I miss the old days, when I would go shopping with my mother with her wicker basket and my dad in his ostentatious cravat, stopping to chat over broad beans with Mr Patel the greengrocer, asking after Ms Amod at the haberdashery counter.

Read more: Unravelling fast fashion — the ugly reality of environmental and worker exploitation behind the glam

In her book These Precious Days, a collection of essays, one of my favourite authors, Ann Patchett, tells how she gave up buying clothes for a year.

The unspoken question of shopping, she wrote, is: “What do I need?” Then she answers her question: “But I didn’t need anything. What I needed was less than what I had.”

I tried it for a few months. A friend and I made a pact that if we really wanted something, we had to wait, think about it and, if the urge persisted, we had to call each other to discuss the merit of owning said item.

I gave up on the shopping abstinence after a few months when I found myself buying a shirt, then pretending to my no-shopping partner that I hadn’t. Are we wired to shop and want pretty things? Nature of the beast or nurtured and learnt bad habits?

Minds will probably not be changed. But, perhaps, it might be wise if we all stopped to think about how, when and where we shop, and consider that there is more at stake than the dress you’re buying. DM

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