Coastal communities on the frontline of the climate crisis — Dwesa-Cwebe in Hobeni, Eastern Cape

Hobeni is a small village on South Africa’s Wild Coast, in the Eastern Cape. It forms part of the seven Dwesa-Cwebe communities. Ancestors of its current residents settled at the Mbashe River, which flanks the village, centuries ago. From that time onwards hunting in the forest, fishing, and harvesting of shellfish was governed by customary law. In addition to their livelihood, they’ve relied on the ocean for  their spirituality because their ancestors are in the ocean. 

The people living at Dwesa-Cwebe have suffered multiple dispossessions. Forced removals under the guise of conservation began in the 1890s, and continued until 1970s when the Dwesa-Cwebe reserve was fenced off. In 2000 the area was declared a marine protected area with a no-take ruling prohibiting residents from fishing and harvesting mussels.

There have also been a few victories. A land claim was awarded to the Dwesa-Cwebe villages in the form of a monetary settlement in 2001. However, in 2010, Malibongwe David Gonqgose was arrested for fishing at the Mbashe River. In 2018, the Supreme Court of Appeal ruled that customary law and conservation can co-exist. “... the Dwesa-Cwebe communities have a greater interest in marine resources associated with their traditions and customs, than any other people. These customs recognise the need to sustain the resources that the sea provides,” the judgment reads.

13 November 2023: Jongithuba Mathelele Mpampa (72) hunts for octopus in the rock pools on the coast near the Mbashe River mouth at low tide. His agility belies his age. He hops from from rock to rock, poking his stick into rock pools looking for octopus. Keeping a watchful eye on the waves, he decides whether to anchor as they break or hop to safety. Octopus is used as bait when targeting the large cob that inhabit the waters around the Mbashe river mouth. (Photo: Barry Christianson)

13 November 2023: An octopus hangs off a stump of a tree branch, waiting to be sliced into pieces of bait. (Photo: Barry Christianson)

13 November 2023: Malibongwe Gongqose fishes at the Mbashe River mouth close to sundown. In 2010 Gonqgose was arrested for fishing at the mouth of the Mbashe River. Ultimately, the Supreme Court of Appeal found that Gongqose was exercising his customary right to fish when he was arrested. (Photo: Barry Christianson)

13 November 2023: Fish scales lay scattered on the floor of the mangrove forest at the Mbashe River Mouth, waiting for the high tide to sweep them away. (Photo: Barry Christianson)

17 November 2023: Nowinasi Ndawo takes part in the tradition of harvesting shellfish in the intertidal zones in order to feed her family and sell for a bit of income. She was taught by her mother who in turn was taught by her grandmother. Each month when the moon is full Nowinasi makes the 3km journey through the forest which includes steep, muddy sections to collect mussels, limpets, and red bait. After filling her buckets, she makes the same trek back home, retracing her steps. (Photo: Barry Christianson)

17 November 2023: A knife rests on a small pile of limpets while the women rinse and separate the mussels they harvested on the day. (Photo: Barry Christianson)

17 November 2023: Nowinasi Ndawo is regarded as the most skilful mussel collector by her peers. One of the reasons is the fearless way in which she navigates the rocks at the edge of the intertidal zone. (Photo: Barry Christianson)

17 November 2023: Mussels and other shellfish have been harvested at Dwesa-Cwebe for three centuries. For the women who participate in the activity the mussels represent a valuable source of protein as well as a source of livelihood as they sell their harvest to neighbours in their villages. (Photo: Barry Christianson)

15 November 2023: Malibongwe Gonqgose walks home on the road that winds through Hobeni. (Photo: Barry Christianson)

16 November 2023: Malibongwe Gonqgose fishing at the Mbashe River mouth in the evening. That evening he didn’t catch a single fish. 'I don’t know why they aren’t biting. Maybe the water is too cold.' (Photo: Barry Christianson)

16 November 2023: Malibongwe Gonqgose packs up his fishing gear after a fishless evening and prepares to make the 6km walk home. Speaking about the possible impact of seismic surveys and the possibility of oil spills, he asks: 'What will happen to the fish? What will happen to the fishermen? What will happen to the ancestors?' (Photo: Barry Christianson)