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Halong Bay, like being in a dreamy movie

People on the move in Saigon, as it is still called by many who live there. (Image by Hung Trang Hoai from Pixabay)

28 Mar 2025

Fortunato and Veralda Mazzone are sharing their holiday diary while in Vietnam. It’s been an eye-opening time; a time for reflection.

Yet another astonishing day in Vietnam. A visit and a short one-night cruise on Halong Bay. The hospitality of the Vietnamese people continues to astound me. It is inherent. Their warmth and kindness is palpable. And Halong is jaw-droppingly beautiful. It is like being in a dreamy movie as you drift through a mirror-smooth sea between the limestone islands jutting out at steep angles — 1,969 of them. (This is part two of this series. Read part one here.)

The guide tells us it is a Unesco heritage site and was voted one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World a decade ago. We are 30 guests with 20 crew on a dreamy wood-clad ship (yacht?). We have a massive suite with a gorgeous bathroom and private balcony with two huge loungers and a couch. It is luxury on another level.

You don’t need more things — you need experiences

Veralda writes: Boat trips galore. A smiling Forti in Hoi An and with our charming guide Lingh on the Mekong Delta. There was a trip on one very small boat.

Food is the usual: bountiful and delicious. And so light and healthy. Full of crunchy vegetables. And light broths. And fresh fish and shellfish. It is simplicity and balance.

Elephant ear fish in the small village off the Mekong Delta. Right: Tiny bananas from Ken’s family’s farm in Hoi An.

We sat on the upstairs deck drinking cocktails as the sun went down. Many of them. Wondering if we were dreaming. It really is that special. Tomorrow morning we have early morning Tai Chi and then we will catch some calamari with local fishermen.

We did not smile much (except for this moment) because our full shapes could easily rock the boat.

This afternoon they wanted us to kayak if we wanted to. I sat in a hot bath looking through a picture window taking up the whole stern of the boat. Far more relaxing.

Tonight we sat on our balcony and gazed at the lights of the other ships reflecting in the water across the bay. We talked to an interesting French couple who are equally captivated by this country. If you can, come here. It is worth every penny. We have realised that you don’t need more things. You need experiences. And this is one.

Calm temples and sheer mayhem

Railroad tracks in old town Hanoi. (Image by Matteo Imperiali from Pixabay)

Tomorrow morning at the crack of dawn we leave Hanoi and fly to Danang and Hoi An. Today we returned from our beautiful cruise, and on the way back our driver picked up a nail on the highway and we had a puncture. Without blinking an eye he changed the tyre in five minutes, with a smile. I have never seen it done so fast. At the next auto stop I bought him a massive bag of sweets for his daughter. It will take weeks to wipe the smile from his face. I have never met more helpful and accommodating people. Our driver and guide have been exceptional.

We spent the day in the part of the old town we haven’t traversed. We saw a million fascinating things and imbibed in a million smiles. We saw things that absolutely enchanted us. Chaos that I have never seen, and spots of calm thrown in that I have never experienced. Right next to each other. Calm temples and sheer mayhem glued together with the indomitable smiles of the Viet people. Incredible smells. A rainbow of colour. Absolute poverty and incredible wealth. Sharing the same 50 metres on the road.

A maelstrom assaulting the senses

Egg Coffee in Hanoi.

What did we enjoy: Vietnamese egg coffee which I will be showcasing at Vee and Forti when I get back. I am hooked. Spectacular Bahn mi sandwiches. Myriad live fish and exotic fruits. Icy cold beer. Some of the greatest cocktails I have ever had the privilege of drinking — in a sky bar of superlative quality and incredible views.

The never-ending pleasure of walking the streets for hours with my wife, and seeing her smiling and laughing constantly. Clothes and silk, shoes and crockery. One million spas staffed by delicate ivory-skinned beauties. Thousands of street vendors selling every food imaginable. A maelstrom assaulting the senses. You could never tire of this country.

In 30 years they created a miracle

Veralda writes: Ken, our guide in Hoi An and Da Nang, took us to his home village where we worked in the fields with his family and afterwards learnt from him and the chef how to make rice pancakes.

I am sitting next to a pool relaxing in the afternoon with four large cocktails in me. The edge is definitely off. And the thought process is activated. We have spent two ultra-relaxing days in Hoi An. We have done many interesting things.

We have eaten very well. We visited a working farm and ate with the villagers. We have learned much history from a young man who comes from a farming family, has spent time in the army and is now a charming tourist guide. Ken (as he says, like Heineken) has made me understand that the Viet people are resourceful, hard working, patriotic and fantastic.

A boeremeisie at heart, working on the farm was a highlight for Veralda. Lunch was prepared from the produce grown on this pristine farm.

Any nation that has suffered like this one and can still come out on top with a beautiful smiling disposition is a lesson to the world. I will never refer to the Vietnam war again. It was the American war. As it was the French war before it. Where the might of America got its ass handed to it by a small nation of determined people who wanted to be free and independent, and who despite being carpet-bombed and poisoned by plane loads of dioxins have risen to be world leaders in so many fields despite being poor and under-resourced.

In 30 years they created a miracle. And in doing so became one of the best tourist destinations in the world. For food, beauty, hospitality, kindness and sheer determination.

They are major exporters of rice, coffee and so many other things. They have a government that works for the people. They respect their elders and respect their history and culture. They value hard work. They don’t expect something for nothing. They are a nation with a plan. They have incredible agriculture.

Education is prized, and their livelihood is based on the concerted efforts of the citizens of Vietnam to improve their country and the lives of its citizens.

They value your presence in their country, and they are so proud of it. You just want to come here again and again. You don’t feel ripped off. You feel enriched by coming here. They are a perfect example of socialism applied correctly.

There is no culture of entitlement. Only a culture of kindness and respect for all. And of the value of hard work and community. The culture is summed up in the cup of greed. They have a cup that can be filled to almost full. It then holds all the liquid. If you are greedy and overfill it it drains to the bottom. And you can’t stop it. The philosophy is poignant. Without greed anything is possible.

They sent us fruit and cookies from their table

We are on our way to the airport to fly to Ho Chi Minh City. As it was raining lightly, we walked down the road and found a tiny little spa staffed by a lady with a gentle, kindly face. Two four-foot-high Vietnamese ladies took Vee and I behind a curtain and proceeded to rearrange my muscular structure in a massage I have not experienced since my lovely late Olga was alive. She was so strong and caring and seemed to be able to find all my sore points without speaking a word of English. Vee experienced the same as we lay next to each other in the quiet darkness. It was simply remarkable.

I will now be able to fold myself up into the Vietnam airline’s economy seat for an hour. We then had coffee amid a large Vietnamese family gathering. They sent us fruit and cookies from their table. These are the most polite people in the world.

In Ho Chi Minh City, a veritable miracle

Modern Saigon, aka Ho Chi Minh City. (Image by Hung Trang Hoai from Pixabay)

Ho Chi Minh City is a city that never sleeps. Nine million people slammed together in a nucleus of massive economic development. From an impoverished war-ravaged city post 1975 to a vibrant modern Metropolis in only 50 years, with the majority of the development happening only since 1995.

A situation similar to ours. In reverse. We have seen in South Africa a type of infrastructural collapse since 1994. A massively unequal economic system in a very rich country has degraded until the mass of society is now at a very low common denominator.

In Vietnam, the opposite. Massive employment and deployment of the economic riches to the benefit of all. A veritable miracle. Very low personal taxation (10% across the board) and a further 10% of sales tax, properly employed, result in free and truly excellent primary education up to year seven. And then very cheap further education to a massively high standard. Very cheap and excellent healthcare. National health insurance is 50 US dollars a year per person. Which covers every possible ailment.

Why and how? The emphasis on the family and respect for elders and the ancestors. The work of previous generations being honoured and appreciated. Massive investment in employment and education infrastructure. All infrastructure, really.

The lack entirely of an attitude of entitlement. People who are not afraid to work. A government focused on delivery. I have seen exactly two beggars on my whole trip. The worth of employment and pride in the nation. Most importantly, the acknowledgement that the past is the past. And that one cannot change or forget the past. But the importance of today and the future. A focus on what lies ahead.

Luxurious hotels cost peanuts

The Vietnamese kitchen has so much to offer. But even if you go just for the pho, you will be nourished. To use the cliche, it is like an internal hug. This specific bowl was devoured at the Michelin-recommended Vietnam Pho in Ho Chi Minh city for a mere R70, including Vietnamese beers.

Vietnam is a world leader in agriculture. A net exporter of rice (the world’s second largest exporter). Ditto their excellent coffee. And complete food self-sufficiency due to intensive and excellent farming practices. A net exporter of electricity to the whole region. An industrial powerhouse that supports its own industry.

Vinfast (a local car manufacturer) dominates the market with electric and hybrid vehicles of quality and technological excellence. The smallest model costs only $6,000 (the same price as a Vespa scooter) and offers a very cute looking small SUV with 150 kilometres of electric range; the largest model looks similar to a Range Rover with more than 350km of range and a luxurious interior, has vast space and an elegant design, and costs between $35,000 and $38,000.

A good, powerful scooter costs $2,000 to $4,000 new. Many youngsters work in the massive tourism and hospitality industry to learn English while they study. Prices of food are super cheap and in line with the national average salary. A nutritious and delicious meal costs the equivalent of R2 to R4. Luxurious hotels cost peanuts compared to South Africa, with elevated levels of service and beautiful rooms.

The future belongs to them

Young people on the move in Saigon, as it is still called by many who live there. (Image by Hung Trang Hoai from Pixabay)

The bottom line: it all works. And it works well. For all. Due to the population at large wanting it to. Everyone has their niche in this society. I have never seen such a happy and industrious place. People live with happiness. Hard work is not a burden. It is something to be grateful for. Employment is a source of pride, as is education. And that is why America got its ass kicked here in the war. Ditto the French. This is the world’s most patriotic and hard-working nation. And the future belongs to them. Rightfully. DM

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