I finally used an air fryer — but I’m still on the fence

I am generally sceptical of overhyped products, so I have avoided buying an air fryer for years. 

In recent years, air fryers have garnered a cult-like following. People who are for the countertop appliance boast about its convenience, which involves having a meal made in minutes without dishes piling up. There are also health benefits because air fryers don’t require a lot of oil.  

Another drawcard is that an air fryer guzzles less electricity compared with an oven. And this counts a lot, considering Eskom wants to hike electricity tariffs by a cumulative 57% over the next three years. This is over and above electricity tariffs in South Africa increasing by 653% between 2007 and 2022, while inflation over this period went up by 129%.

People who are against owning an air fryer have dismissed it as a glorified countertop oven, and loud (the humming noise is excellent when you live in a big or standalone house, not a tiny apartment, as I do). Air fryers are typically big and take up a lot of countertop real estate, which is unsuitable for apartment living.  

The anti-air fryer group argues the appliance typically produces more dry than crisp food. After all, fat and oil significantly affect the texture of food.

Other people also argue that an air fryer requires more clean-up and maintenance than an oven. Most people deep clean their ovens for food spills or splatters every three months, but an air fryer basket should be cleaned after each use.

I’ve been on the fence, vacillating between the arguments peddled by the for- and anti-air-fryer groups. 

I still don’t own an air fryer. I am not ready to make a permanent commitment that will set me back at least R1,000 for a decent-sized and performing countertop appliance. 

So, for now, I’ll piggyback off friends who have made the air fryer commitment and experiment with their appliance. I did that when a friend and former Daily Maverick journalist, Ruan Jooste, recently opened up her home in Cape Town and allowed me to use her air fryer. 

My foray into the air fryer world involved making low-carb pizza (the recipe is below). 

The arguments peddled by the pro-air fryer group were demonstrable. On the pizza base, I slapped on tomato paste, baby spinach, rocket, basil, canned artichokes, red onions, mozzarella and feta cheese, and black olives. I inserted the loaded pizza base into the air fryer and set it for 15 minutes at more than 180°C. 

The air fryer beeped to inform me that the pizza was ready. Now that is convenience up the wazoo! The pizza was brown, crisp and delicious. 

But the arguments peddled by the anti-air fryer group were also demonstrable as the pizza was a bit dry – significantly after it cooled and the melted cheese firmed. After experimenting, I am still on the fence. 

My lifestyle might seem ideal for owning an air fryer as I am single, live alone, am a millennial who is always in search of convenience, and have a demanding career that doesn’t afford me the time to make intricate daily meals. An air fryer might also be suitable for reheating leftovers – from stale pizza, to chips to lasagna – injecting a bit of freshness that a microwave doesn’t. 

If you are convinced about owning an air fryer, my editor, Tony Jackman, recommends a larger one (with at least 5.7 litres of frying capacity), which is more productive in the kitchen because you can stuff more food in the basket.

Ray’s first air fryer pizza (and maybe his last)

The topping ingredients, ready to go on the pizza. (Photo: Ray Mahlaka)