Jozi’s J Rabbit Tequileria shoots the breeze

3 May 2019

Tequila – the intense spirit which conjures nightmares of hangovers and bad decisions – was not designed to be knocked back at bachelor parties. This under-appreciated liquor is finally getting the recognition it deserves. Premium tequilas are becoming more available in South Africa and they’re best sipped at room temperature, not served as shooters straight out of the freezer.

To enter J Rabbit Tequileria, you walk through a small, basic laundromat called CML (Cartel Money Laundry). You think to yourself, “I’m definitely in the wrong place”, but hidden behind the “staff only” door is a secret stairway leading up to an opulent, plush bar.

“The whole intention is contrast. Downstairs is very urban, very pedestrian. We want finding J Rabbit to be part of the experience. It creates a mental pathway: the experience of getting here, you don’t forget about it,” says co-owner Paul Lycos.

“By contrast, J Rabbit is more plush, more luxurious and offering a respite from the rest of the world.”

The bar, named after animated siren Jessica Rabbit, boasts the largest collection of premium tequila and mezcal in South Africa. What started as an import company for hard-to-find tequilas has turned into a trendy venue to showcase the company’s brands.

J Rabbit co-founders Lycos and Brigitte Labuschagne meshed their passion for food and tequila to develop the slick Illovo tequileria. American-born Lycos developed the South American-influenced light meals and snacks.

“Tequila has a bit of an acidic quality so you want foods that pair well with that. You want some brightness from fruit flavours, so we use a lot of limes, pineapple and coriander,” says Lycos.

The menu features unusual ingredients like plantains (the banana’s savoury cousin), hand-made corn masa tortillas, and 36-hour marinated porn neck; all paired with bright citrus and herb flavours.

Labuschagne, a former executive at Pernod Ricard, developed the cocktail menu. Her whimsical creations are designed to either enhance the tequila flavours or mask them to win over tequila-fearing patrons. For an example of the latter, the Movie Night cocktail: popcorn-infused tequila shaken with ice, fresh cream, and salted caramel. The glass is rimmed with salted caramel and popcorn dust for a salty-sweet sensation.

Lycos believes tequila’s product placement in TV and movies has boosted the spirit’s sales and popularity. Jeff Bridges knocks back a Herraduro Reposado in Kingsman: The Golden Circle. Bobby Axelrod and Wags celebrate with Don Hulio 1942 (priced at R4,999 on Bottleshop) in Billions and, of course, there was George Clooney.

Clooney co-founded a tequila brand called Casamigos and became a walking advertisement for tequila. In 2017, he sold the business to Diageo (owner of brands like Don Julio, Smirnoff and Johnnie Walker) for $700-million, roughly R9.9-billion.

Most South Africans only have access to tequila brands such as Olmeca and José Cuervo. The cheaper varieties of these brands are called mixtos: they are made of only half pure agave spirit and the remainder is made of other sugars and additives. Olmeca and José Cuervo do produce premium 100% agave tequilas, but they’re more expensive and less common in South African bars.

To be considered true tequila, the spirit needs to be produced in the city of Tequila in Jalisco state. It can be made from just one agave varietal: Blue Weber agave. The taste profile of a tequila varies depending on where the agave is planted, when it’s harvested, the preparation methods and how long it’s been aged.

To keep it simple, tequila can be broken down into three basic categories:

Blanco, which means “white” in Spanish, is a white spirit and is not aged before bottling.

Reposado, which means “rested” in Spanish, is barrel-aged for a minimum of two months, producing a light golden colour.

Anejo, which means “old” or “aged” in Spanish, is barrel-aged for a minimum of one year.

“In Mexico, this spirit is drunk room temperature and sipped, like a whiskey, and is enjoyed,” Lycos explains. “You don’t see people throwing back shooters of a 25-year-old single malt, it’s the same thing.”

SA’s growing tequila appreciation has resulted in the local production of the spirit. Brands such as Leonista are growing and harvesting agave in the Karoo. Sarah Kennan, the founder of Leonista, witnessed the potential of agave while on a research trip in Mexico.

“It’s a plant that grows in the middle of nowhere, with no irrigation and no water. It’s a very sustainable plant,” says Kennan.

The variety of agave that grows in the Karoo is called Americana. It looks similar to the Blue Weber but has slightly more droopy, bigger leaves. Leonista’s 100% agave spirit is similar to mezcal. Unlike tequila, which can only be made from the Blue Weber, mezcal can be made from any agave plant.

Both spirits are made from the core of the agave plant, called the piña. The difference in taste comes from the cooking methods. For tequila, the piña is steamed in industrial ovens, whereas mezcal is cooked inside earthen pits filled with wood and charcoal, imparting a distinct smoky flavour. To be called a mezcal, the spirit has to be made in Mexico, so South African versions are simply called agave spirits.

Whether it’s a premium reposado or a whimsical cocktail, tequila and mezcal are becoming more prominent on South African menus. Leonista’s slogan “Drink with respect” embodies the idea of sipping and enjoying the spirit.

Kennan fell in love with tequila and agave spirits because they retain the qualities and energy of the plant.

“Tequila made of 100% agave is the most energy-giving of all the alcohols. Wine, beer, gin – they’re all depressants, but tequila is an upper. It makes you feel energised and uplifted.” DM

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