Look ma, no mayo — a fresher, lighter style of potato salad

There’s no finger pointing here. I’ve made potato salad all my life and with few exceptions, I’ve boiled potatoes, cooled and cubed them, and tossed them in a dressing of — well, mayonnaise, really, and not much else. Some salt and black pepper, and that’s it. 

Of course, we do love that, although it changes depending on the style or quality of the mayo. Many commercial brands are far too acidic for my taste. I like a creamier style, with a softer finish. In a perfect world, just whip up your own, it’s so quick and easy.

I use a stick blender and that deep handle-free jug that comes with it. Plop an egg in, beat with a fork, add salt, black pepper and lemon juice, then start blending while pouring flavourless oil in (canola works well, I find). In seconds, there it is: lovely fresh mayo. Toss through the cubed (or whole baby) potatoes. Done.

But there are other ways of dressing a potato salad. This recipe was prompted by the bottle of olive oil I was given while having dinner at Pluim restaurant in De Rust in the Klein Karoo the other day. It’s a local product from nearby Varsfontein farm, and the olives used in this particular oil are frantoio. And the taste, even the nose, it’s just gorgeous. I decided to concoct a dressing based on this, and built the flavour and aroma profile from there.

Next up was Rozendal lavender fynbos vinegar. These vinegars are superb, the sweetness and acidity in perfect balance. This softened the bitter element of this olive oil; the bitterness is good, but needed a counterbalance.

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There needed to be freshness and something green, I felt, so in came chopped slender spring onions (white and green parts) and fresh coriander/cilantro, and lots of it.

And that’s the whole deal; no additional flavourings were needed. Just salt and black pepper, and this was a well-dressed potato salad. If I did add one more element it would have been wholegrain mustard, but I think that would have obviated the coriander.

Tony’s no-mayo potato salad

(Makes a large bowl that should feed up to 8)

Ingredients

8 large potatoes, unpeeled

⅓ cup Varsfontein frantoio extra virgin olive oil, and a little more to finish

⅓ cup Rozendal lavender vinegar, plus a splash or two more

6-8 skinny spring onions, chopped (including green parts)

A handful of fresh coriander leaves, rinsed and chopped finely

Black pepper to taste

Maldon salt to taste

Method

Boil the potatoes whole, drain and leave to cool. Once cooled, peel and dice.

Rinse the coriander and drain. Leave in a colander or sieve to dry out.

Chop the coriander and spring onions.

Pour the olive oil and vinegar into a bowl. Add the spring onions and coriander. Season well with salt and black pepper. Stir.

Add the potatoes and toss with two wooden spoons, being careful not to break up the potatoes. Before serving, drizzle a little more of the Rozendal vinegar and fancy olive oil over, and grate more salt and pepper on top for a bit more oomph. Et voila. DM

Tony Jackman is Galliova Food Writer 2023, jointly with TGIFood columnist Anna Trapido. 

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