Mexican-style sweetcorn, from Aiden Pienaar’s Mexico in Mzansi

Chef Aiden Pienaar. (Photo: Donna Lewis)

By Tony Jackman

5 Jul 2024

Setting off from the principle that you could use boerewors in tacos and chilli con carne in vetkoek, Aiden Pienaar comes up with a vibrant, spicy concoction.

The one thing South Africans always wonder about when cooking Mexican food in this country, if you’re like me, is: yes, but which cheese? In the absence of cotija or queso fresco, Aiden Pienaar, a South African steeped in the Mexican food tradition, seems to have the answer: In his book, it’s cheddar and mozzarella all the way.

Today, Aiden Pienaar is head chef at a Sandton restaurant, but this book has roots in his childhood. He learnt about Mexican food thanks to the themed dinner parties his parents used to throw. He’s turned that passion into an unusual cookbook now on the shelves.

“It all started at the tender age of 10, when my parents would host these elaborate Mexican-themed parties for their family and friends,” he writes. “It was a spectacle. Fajitas, margaritas, tequila, guacamole, freshly cut limes, you name it, it made an appearance on that dinner table. I was fascinated by the aromas that filled the house, not to mention the flavours. I was hooked.”

He breaks the book down into seven parts: Basic, tacos, quesadillas and enchiladas, tapas, Mexico meets air fryer, desserts, and “margarita & Co”, the last being those zingy Mexican cocktails. Not least, seven margaritas, including “Grand margarita” with Grand Marnier), coconut and mezcal, strawberry, and jalapeño and coriander.

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But let’s page back to the basics: corn tortillas, pico de gallo (tomato salsa), pickled red onions, chipotle chilli marinade, guacamole, refried black beans, and mole negro which, like all moles, has a host of ingredients. But there’s Mzansi too in this book, remember, so you’ll also find Mexican-style chakalaka, which includes chipotle chilli marinade and black beans.

Tacos include crispy fish, Asian-style chicken, braised lamb, sosatie & boerie, and prawn and corn, whole quesadillas and enchiladas offer a basic quesadilla filling (bell peppers, onion, cumin, chilli) and a basic enchilada filling (garlic, turmeric, chilli, curry leaves, tomato, cream, oregano) which are then transformed into beefier (or lambier, chickenier or porkier) dishes.

Chef Aiden Pienaar. (Photo: Donna Lewis)

Under “tapas” there’s your basic chilli con carne, though I have to ask who in their right minds wants a mere tapas portion of one of the most moreish dishes on the planet. There are chilli poppers, deep-fried avocado wedges (dipped in flour and egg, panko-crumbed, fried, and served with chipotle marinade mixed with sour cream), peri citrus prawns, and chilli con carne again, this time with vetkoek. Smart idea.

Crispy chicken wings are covered in “puffed rice cereal” (I think they’re trying not to say Rice Krispies), and suddenly we find ourselves in Air Fryer World with “Mexico meets Air Fryer” and recipes such as tostadas (bought tortillas, air fried under a weight until crisp), jalapeño-stuffed chicken breasts (cooked in 10 to 12 minutes), and a quick Mexican flatbread tan can be air fried in less than 16 minutes.

Desserts include a Mexican rice pudding (arroz con leche), churros bites, deep-fried churros ice cream (yes please), and “lazy” tres leche (milk cake) which seems to have no cooking time at all. “It’s as delicious as if you slaved away for hours,” Aiden says. The secret: day-old good quality brioche.

But the one thing that marries Mexico and Mzansi is our mutually beloved corn, so I asked for his recipe for Mexican-style street corn to share with you.

Aiden Pienaar’s Mexican-style Street Corn

200°C | 8 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients

2 corn cobs

2 Tbsp mayonnaise

1 tsp smoked paprika

¼ cup finely grated parmesan, cotija or Greek feta cheese

1 tsp chilli powder

fresh coriander

for garnishing

1 lime wedge

Method

Place a large pot of cold salted water over high heat, add the corn cobs and bring to the boil. When the water reaches a rolling boil, remove the corn cobs from the pot and set aside to cool.

Preheat the air fryer to 200°C.

In a small bowl, mix the mayonnaise and smoked paprika. Break the corn cobs in half to fit into the air fryer. Using a pastry brush or butter knife, smear the mayonnaise mixture over the corn cobs, making sure they are covered.

Place the corn cobs into the air fryer and cook for 8 minutes, turning halfway. They are done when the corn kernels are soft and slightly blistered.

Remove the corn cobs from the air fryer, brush them with a little more mayo and immediately roll them in the cheese until completely covered.

Place the corn cobs on a serving dish, dust with the chilli powder, garnish with fresh coriander and enjoy with a squeeze of fresh lime juice. DM

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