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More than ‘big water’ — the great comfort and joy of Gariep Dam

More than ‘big water’ — the great comfort and joy of Gariep Dam
Architectural glory of Smithfield, still visible in parts. (Image: Chris Marais)
Chris Marais and Julienne du Toit
By Chris Marais and Julienne du Toit
27 Dec 2024
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Southern Free State Karoo Snapshots of Gariep Dam, Venterstad, Bethulie, Philippolis and Smithfield.

There’s nothing quite like dipping your toes in the waters of Gariep Dam while sipping a sundowner – unless it’s dipping your toes in the pool of the De Stijl Gariep Hotel overlooking the massive dam at last light.

Depending on the time of day, Gariep Dam changes its mood from sullen midday browns to the dark blues and coppers of dawn – and the molten silvers and golds of sunset. Karoo hills poke through it, appearing in soft light and morning mist like vapid Japanese islands. 

One can’t help being impressed by the backstory of the place.

Construction started in 1966 and finished in 1971. The building of the Gariep Dam enabled the creation of hundreds of farms. A quarter of its water is sent down the Great Fish River via the Orange-Fish Tunnel, bringing irrigation and life to the Cape Midlands and Sundays River Valley – a Mother Dam to shepherd the Mother River and her offspring.

But more than all that, for a South African living in a thirsty country, it’s a great comfort and joy to visit Gariep and simply gaze in awe at its vast waters. 

For visitors to South Africa who have spent some time driving through the arid Karoo, a drive around Gariep Dam will reveal more than “big water”: historical sites, eccentric country types, a plush hotel, waterside herds of antelope and wide-angle landscapes to thrill the eye.

Venterstad – Southern Gateway


During the six years that it took to build South Africa’s Gariep Dam (1966 to 1971), the little Eastern Cape settlement of Venterstad became quite a cosmopolitan centre, with as much French and Italian being spoken as Afrikaans and English.

The European dam-builders may have departed, but they left behind a monumental piece of dam architecture in the form of Gariep, South Africa’s biggest stored water resource.

Venterstad began life as a farmer’s town back in the mid-1860s, with its tuishuise (townhouses), shops and church buildings. It was quiet until the Gariep Dam was built, and then a lot more farms were established because there was available water.

Gariep Venterstad, south-eastern gateway to the Gariep Route. (Photo: Chris Marais)



Today, Venterstad is a good launchpad for anyone wanting to enjoy the Gariep Route, which covers Gariep village, Bethulie, Springfontein, Smithfield, Jagersfontein, Philippolis and Colesberg. 

The manager of a local self-cater has this to say about his town:

“Cows walk along the street, chickens peck the pavements and goats help themselves to plants and trees in the gardens. The locals are friendly and they all have a story to tell.”

Don’t miss Willem se Kampie, a padstal near Venterstad with condensed milk coffee, pancakes, roosterkoek, homemade ginger beer and a lot more.

Bethulie Books


One of the most historically poignant yet delightful towns in the Free State is the southern settlement of Bethulie, near the Gariep Dam.

This is where about 5,000 Boer women and children were interned during the South African War in a camp where more than 20 souls lost their lives each day. The Bethulie Concentration Camp memorial site has a special alcove where the gravestones of many of the child victims are mounted in concrete.

The Pellissier House Museum in Voortrekker Street will give you an insight into Victorian-era lifestyles as they played out in this part of the Karoo.

The nearby Bethulie Bridge is a great sundowner spot, from where you can admire the Orange River heading off towards the massive Gariep Dam – or Lake Gariep, as they prefer to call it around here.

One of the local hang-outs in Bethulie. (Image: Chris Marais)



There is a legend about the special trains that carried thousands of mineworkers travelling between Transkei and the Reef. Many of the miners believed that the river contained a monster snake. As the trains crossed the bridge they tossed coins from the carriages as a peace offering.

The young boys growing up in Bethulie were well aware this was happening. When the trains were due they hid under the bridge waiting to catch the falling coins, and maybe to dive for them. 

Don’t miss a chance to sleep over at the famous book hotel called The Royal Bethulie.

Philippolis Village


Philippolis is full of interesting people, fascinating architecture and a colourful history.

This little southern Free State village, tucked away off the N1 at the toe of the Horizon Route, has the idyllic kind of atmosphere most people have come to expect from the Karoo.

That’s why there’s never a shortage of weekend visitors wandering the streets, checking the real estate prices and dreaming of the day they can quit the city and move to such a place.

The slumbering early morning beauty of Philippolis. (Image: Chris Marais)



It was the home of adventurer-writer Sir Laurens van der Post and Griqua leader Adam Kok. Human rights activist Emily Hobhouse established a weaving and spinning school here in 1905. 

Read more: The Kok family and the longest trek in South Africa

There are active social programmes to help the disadvantaged, there are artists and crafters a-plenty and a group of young people who have come to love Philippolis with a passion. They represent a significant turnaround in population trends – normally the younger set can’t wait to head off to the bright city lights. 

Jens Friis of the Groenhuis (seven beautifully restored cottages just outside town) has written a beautiful book on the history of his beloved home town.

Take a drive up to the Philippolis reservoir and drink in the view. 

Smithfield Springbok


Set on the “Friendly N6” highway between Bloemfontein and East London, the little Free State town of Smithfield markets itself as being “halfway to anywhere in South Africa”. 

Apart from being a super hideaway from city streets, the main appeal of Smithfield lies in its array of outdoor activities. This is a good area for birding, hiking and cycling the back roads of the southern Free State. You can also go to the Gariep Nature Reserve, which boasts eland, springbok and black wildebeest.

The architectural glory of Smithfield, is still visible in parts. (Image: Chris Marais)



In the town itself is a most memorable cannon called Ou Grietjie, a muzzle-loading ship’s piece that was used in various wars by the Boers against the Basotho. 

Smithfield has an active accommodation group of B&Bs, guesthouses and farmstays. It is perfect for long-haul overnighters, even for a two-day stay during which one can explore the Gariep area at leisure.

Read more: On citizen astronomers and foreign bodies

Smithfield also lies a “friendly distance” from its sister towns of Bethulie, Springfontein, Philippolis and Jagersfontein. Whenever there’s an event of some kind in one of these towns, the others all attend. And while there’s a welcoming smile, Smithfield will always remain on travellers’ itineraries. DM



For more stories on the Karoo from Julienne du Toit and Chris Marais, try their Karoo Roads series of books, priced at R350 (landed) each.

The Karoo Quartet Special (Karoo Roads 1 – 4) consists of more than 60 Karoo stories and hundreds of black and white photographs. Priced at R960 (including taxes and courier in South Africa), this Heritage Collection can be ordered from [email protected]

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