Moving Heaven and Earth to find Creation

It’s a perfect winter’s day to be out in the countryside. With hardly a cloud in the sky, the sun is glistening off the ancient rocks of the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, in the heart of the Cape Floral Kingdom — one of the world’s most biodiverse wine regions. 

The aptly named Hemel-en-Aarde (Heaven and Earth) region is renowned for its cool climate and diverse, ancient soils, perfect for cultivating world-class pinot noir and chardonnay. We moved heaven and earth to get there, in a high-spec test-drive car, about which more later.

Near the top of the ridge is Creation Winery. Founded in 2002 by Swiss winemaker JC Martin and his wife Carolyn, Creation was once a 40-hectare rocky site, untouched by vines. There’s a legacy of winemaking in their blood: Carolyn’s maiden name is Finlayson, a family of pioneers of pinot noir in South Africa, who once owned Hartenberg and have been associated with Blaauwklippen Wine Estate, Glen Carlou, Edgbaston, Boschendal and Bouchard Finlayson. 

JC decided at the age of 14 to become a winemaker (inspired by his grandfather, Jules Martin, who established the family winery on the banks of Lake Bienne in Switzerland in 1935) and owns a large stake in the historic winery of Grillette in Neuchâtel. 

In 2002, they embarked on the ambitious task of transforming this remote corner of the Walker Bay wine region into a world-class estate. 

The name “Creation” reflects not only the farm’s exceptional terroir but also their innovative approach to viticulture, including their work in establishing virus-free vineyards.

International acclaim

I’m embarrassed to say that our visit to Creation was long overdue: It was almost a year to the day since my chat with Carolyn, who is also their creative director, about the estate after that slice of heaven was nominated as the world’s fourth-best vineyard to visit and the top wine estate in Africa. 

Creation’s closest contenders were Catena Zapata Wines in Mendoza, Argentina (which won the world’s best vineyard); Bodegas de los Herederos del Marqués de Riscal in Rioja, Spain; Viña VIK in Chile; and Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Bordeaux, France, in fifth position, as the finest wine tourism destinations in the world.

This was the fifth edition of the awards, which are organised by William Reed Media, a digital data and events business in the food and beverage sector. Based in London, William Reed Media also releases the influential World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards list. The 50 World’s Best Vineyards will be held in the UK later in November.

Creation is no stranger to award shows, both locally and abroad: this year alone, it has won the Best in Wine Tourism Services and Art and Culture in South Africa; the 2024 V d’Or Award for Best Brand Experience in Paris, based on the innovative and original quality of the brand experience, its personality, and consistent quality; and two of their wines were picked by the World’s Best Sommeliers’ Selection: the 2021 Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay and the 2021 Creation Art of Pinot Noir (The WBSS is an exclusive competition showcasing wines with extraordinary character and compelling stories.)

Tasting room brand ambassador and sommelier Tinashe Musora is one of Creation’s rising superstars: in June, he won the inaugural Luminary Award at WineLand Media’s 30 Under 30 Awards, for his extraordinary contributions to the wine industry and his inspiring journey. 

At the age of 24, Musora is the son of Martin’s domestic worker and has a bright future ahead of him. He started clearing tables at Creation Wines after high school and has quickly ascended the ranks, transitioning to a tasting room assistant and ultimately a skilled sommelier. 

Everyone’s rooting for him.

Musora was the inaugural recipient of the Gérard Basset Foundation WSET Diploma in Wines Bursary, the first time it has been awarded for the Wine and Spirit Education Trust’s flagship Level 4 Diploma in Wines. 

In May, he earned a distinction in the Wine Judging Academy, affiliated with the University of Cape Town. 

Food and wine pairing with a difference

Creation offers an immersive experience beyond superb wine, combining an extraordinary dining experience that celebrates biodiversity through its menu and wine list, stunning landscapes, and beguiling art, including The Journey exhibition by a local glass-blowing studio, Red Hot Glass.

Executive chef Eleanor Coetzee and her team, who are all credited individually for their dishes, have consulted with Nicola Cunningham, a plant-based chef, Martin explains. The team doesn’t come from a traditionally plant-based background, so they’ve developed their skills in terms of creating food which is more plant-based. They also incorporate Ayurvedic principles into their menu. 

Martin’s enthusiasm for Creation is on a par with Musora’s earnest passion for wine. We joined him for a guided food and wine pairing with a difference, connecting nature, innovation and the senses, at a table dressed with a piece of red velvet cloth, a silk scarf, a rock and a seashell — brought on during various courses to heighten and complement the tactile, visual, taste, sound, smell and vestibular input of the pairing.

Elaborating on the odd selection at the table, Martin explained that placing the seashell to the ear enhances the flavours of the chardonnay, while feeling the rock magnifies the minerality of the sauvignon blanc; the silky smoothness of the pinot; and the velvety rich texture of the syrah. It’s certainly plausible (and not merely the power of suggestion, as Heston Blumenthal —  famous for his scientific approach to food — proved with dishes such as “Sound of the Sea” at The Fat Duck).

Creation’s Winter Journey (which ends in September) is a symphony for the senses. About 80% of the menu is plant-based, so there are vegetarian and vegan options alongside sustainably sourced fish, beef, game, and poultry.

Each chapter of the journey a surprise

Springbok loin; umami broth and bone marrow; hazelnut and other sweet delights. (Photos: Supplied)