Risotto with a Mediterranean flavour

Here’s a risotto that would seem at home in Mediterranean cuisines other than Italy, the home of risotto. As well as the aubergines, tomatoes, olives and garlic listed above, it has fresh oregano and feta, both of which sing of Greece, and of course the inclusion of olives and sweet sherry might just as easily take us to Spain.

I went small with the ingredients here. Baby aubergines as well as baby tomatoes. After braising the rice in olive oil to get it going, I added white wine before beginning to add the stock a little at a time.

This process of the rice absorbing the aromatic liquids bit is the joy of making a risotto — you’re working constantly, if gently, while not for a moment being irritated by the task at hand, because it is just so rewarding.

Just remember — always when making risotto — to stop when the rice is al dente but the risotto is still creamy. That’s the trick, and it comes with experience and patience.

Tony’s risotto with aubergines, tomatoes and olives

(Serves 4-6)

Ingredients

Olive oil, plenty

200g arborio rice

250ml/1 cup dry white wine

100 ml sweet sherry or port

50ml black olive brine

1 litre vegetable or chicken stock

1 large red onion, sliced

4 garlic cloves, smashed and chopped

12 baby aubergines, sliced

12 baby tomatoes, halved

2 Tbsp tomato paste

Fresh oregano leaves

100g feta, crumbled or diced

16 Kalamata olives, halved

1 cup finely grated Parmesan

Black pepper (the brine brings the salt)

Method

Have all of the ingredients ready before starting to make your risotto.

Have the stock ready in a large jug — the stock itself, to which add the olive brine and the wine. Have all the vegetables prepared and the olive oil to hand. 

Pour a little olive oil into a deep, wide, heavy pan and put it on a moderate heat. Add the onions and garlic and sautée, stirring, until just softened but not coloured. Remove to a side dish.

Add more oil and the aubergine slices and fry them until softened. Then add them to the side dish. Do the same with the baby tomatoes, and put them in the side bowl too.

Put the pan back on the heat and pour in a generous amount of olive oil. Add the rice and immediately move the rice around in the olive oil, using a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, and make sure that every grain of rice is coated. Add a little more oil and continue for a minute or two.

Add the stock a little at a time, stirring gently while the rice absorbs it, until you have only about a half cup of stock/wine left in the jug; along the way, add the oregano and port/sherry and stir in the tomato paste.

Season the risotto with salt and black pepper, but go lightly with the salt as the brine in the stock is salty. Judge by taste. Leave about half a cup of stock to add at the end.

Stir in the feta and olives, and finally the remaining half cup of stock and the parmesan.

Serve immediately. DM

Tony Jackman is twice winner of the Galliova Food Writer of the year award, in 2021 and 2023

Order Tony’s book, foodSTUFF, here.

Follow Tony Jackman on Instagram @tony_jackman_cooks.

This dish is photographed in a risotto bowl by Mervyn Gers Ceramics.