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Local seamstresses create the flamboyant garments for Tweede Nuwejaar. Their influence stretches much further

Glittering designs from local seamstresses displayed at the weekends Voorsmakie Carnival Competition held at the HollywoodbetsKenilworth race course outfits on Sunday, 15 December. The Juvies-5 troup had the audience on the edge of their feet with their colorful exhibition. (Photo: Supplied)

By Vincent Cruywagen

18 Dec 2024

Seamstresses are the unsung heroes behind the scenes of Cape Town’s yearly Tweede Nuwe Jaar Minstrel Carnival, where they create 20,000 flamboyant and glittering outfits that not only leave 100,000 spectators breathless, but also impress the judges who choose the best-dressed team.

On Reconciliation Day, the traditional Voorsmaakie (sneak peak) event, held annually on 16 December, 24 Klopse troupes with 20,000 members, dazzled the public when they strutted in their glamorous clothes at the Hollywoodbets Kenilworth Racecourse. They proudly march in the annual Cape Town Street Parade on Tweede Nuwejaar.

The Voorsmakie is a preview of what to expect from Klopse troupes during the Cape Town Street Parade on Tweede Nuwe Jaar. Under the umbrella of the Kaapse Klopse Karnival Association, the 24 Klopse troupes will light up the streets of Tweede Nuwejaar with banjos, brass bands, drums, and stunning dance moves.

@ashwin.willemse.orient And baby everytime you touch me I become a hero☝? #ashwinwillemseorients #kaapseklopsekarnivalassociation2024 #orientsbyfaa #exhibitionkings #roadmarch ♬ original sound - ?Orients?

The Tweede Nuwejaar celebration is a cultural tradition that dates back to the early years of colonisation and slavery in the Cape. Slaves were brought to Cape Town from across Africa, India, Indonesia and the Middle East. Despite their slavery, New Years was a time when slaves were allowed the freedom to celebrate.

The name of the Cape Town Street Parade changed to the Hollywoodbets Cape Town Street Parade in December in a deal with Hollywoodbets as the new title sponsor. The Kaapse Klopse Karnival Association obtained sponsorship of R3.5-million a year for three years from Hollywoodbets.

For more than a century, seamstresses’ fingers have been doing the talking on sewing machines, with each attempting to outdo the others in originality. They work tirelessly to create a final product that will impress everyone and make seamstresses proud.

The Juvies-5's banjo melodies mesmerised the gathering at the Voorsmakie on Sunday. (Photo: Supplied)

Underlining the relevance of the seamstresses, Muneeb Gambeno, Kaapse Klopse Karnival Association’s director, stated that in addition to designing and finishing costumes for Klopse troupes, they (seamstresses) became employers themselves as they hired cutters, additional seamstresses, ironing ladies, and so on.

Daily Maverick spoke with two seamstresses, Gadija Frederick, also known as Gigi from Manenberg, and Roegshana Solomons of Solomons Tailors, who have worked around the clock for the past two months to complete 2,900 garments between them.

Delicate touch

Gigi is from the gang-ravaged Manenberg area. She demonstrates that something positive can emerge from a region that is frequently in the news for the wrong reasons.

She has worked as a seamstress in a factory for more than 30 years and is now doing seasonal work for the minstrels. This year, she is in charge of making the Woodstock Starlites look glamorous, as well as assisting TV stars and designing the Nagtroepe tracksuit. Gigi and her staff began two months ago, and nearly 1,000 Klopse outfits are packaged and ready to go.

She is not simply manufacturing standard satin jackets, but also more delicate line jackets. Explaining the process, Gigi said: “The troops buy their own fabric because it is the choice of colour they prefer. Munieb, my husband, does the cutting for multiple groups, while others stitch.

“The most significant aspect of garment construction is that if the job is not cut properly, it will cause harm to the garment. You must know how to assemble a garment.”

Gadija Fredericks from Gigi dressmakers adds the finishing touch to the outfits of the Woodstock Starlites troup. (Photo: Supplied)

Cutter Munieb Fredericks from Gigi's dressmakers in Manenberg makes sure that the cutting of material is handled according to specifications. (Photo: Supplied)

Regarding the importance of seamstresses for the Klopse, she stated: “If it is not for us, Klopse owners cannot put their troops on the road because where will they get their uniforms from?”

Solomons, 41, on the other hand, shows how sewing Klopse outfits runs in her family. She was taught by her late father, Riedewaan, 63, who died last year.

Solomons and her team of nine women have finished outfits for the West London All Stars Klopse troop from Athlone, which has 1,900 members.

Her desire to become a seamstress, particularly for Klopse troupes, she explained, began with her late father, the previous owner of Thompson Tailors.

“My father always wanted me to take over. I’ve always assisted him throughout the years. Before he died, he told me I needed to take over. I used to watch my father sew over the years, and he was known for making the best gear in the minstrels.

“That’s how I perfected the trade: by learning from the best. That’s why I’m a perfectionist. Last year, I prepared garments for the Players Klopse group, and seeing them arrive made me very proud and emotional. This is my first year working without my dad,” she told Daily Maverick.

She described the delicate process of creating that final garment as laying out the material, marking out the pattern of the sizes, cutting the material, ironing the collars of the garments, sewing, marking for buttonholes and buttons, and finally pressing and packing the outfits. The collars and cuffs must first be prepared before they can be applied to the clothing.

‘Multidimensional’

Gambeno, Kaapse Klopse Karnival Association’s director, elaborated on the function of seamstresses, stating that their work was multidimensional, with the most important aspect being their direct role in the carnival — the manufacturing of costumes.

“They understand the requirements when it comes to making outfits. We don’t just rely on the outfits, we rely on their know-how to guide us. Then there is another layer, they become employers of other people, so you get a multiplier effect, they employ the cutters, other seamstresses, ironing ladies, etc.

The final product of seamstress Roegshana Solomons from Thompson Tailors, for the troup West London All Stars. (Photo: Supplied)

A proud moment for seamstress Wayda Alexander and Melvyn Matthews, from the Cape Town Minstrel Carnival Association, looking at the final outfits for the 1,100-member troup called TV Stars Youth Development. (Photo: Supplied)

The Juvies-5 troup had the audience enraptured with their colourful outfits. (Photo: Supplied)

“That in turn again has a multiplying effect and this is probably the most important role that they play, as a conduit for us to contribute to the economic development of the Cape Flats,” he said.

Gambeno also discussed the need for sponsorship, stating that the carnival had expanded to the point where the Kaapse Klopse Karnival Association could no longer operate it the way it used to. Previously, communities would band together to pay for the carnival themselves, he said.

“What our sponsors have done, the City of Cape Town and Hollywoodbets, particularly Hollywoodbets, for two years in a row, have come and said, despite the sponsorship agreement, here is an additional amount from the Hollywoodbets Foundation in order for the Kaapse Klopse Karnival Association to fund the activities related to the making of outfits and the procurement of hats and umbrellas.

“The R1-million we received last year and this year we gave directly to the troupes so that they pay a contribution towards these things they procure from our people on the Cape Flats,” Gambeno said. DM

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Delicate touch

‘Multidimensional’