Walks of life — stroll through Joburg reveals many sides of a renewed inner-city

Gandhi Square is now safe and clean. Photo: Bridget Hilton-Barber

By Kulani Nkuna

14 Nov 2024

A walking tour of Joburg’s mining district reveals a beautiful, safe space with a sense of community.

Take a stroll one Sunday afternoon from Maboneng to the high court side of town from Anderson or Marshall Street and embark on a fascinating journey through Johannesburg. This experience intertwines the lively street-bashy energy of the Kwa Mai-Mai Market with the midday toil in the sun of sex workers and the languid presence of nyaope addicts, all against a backdrop of dirt and grime.

As you continue, the atmosphere transforms into a cooler, cleaner part of the city, lined with trees and shade, transitioning from the Carlton Centre to Gandhi Square, and eventually reaching what locals refer to as “suburban Jozi”.

This area is marked by historical mining headquarters, FNB Bank City, and the upper-crust Woolies, complemented by security personnel, coffee shops and inviting eateries including the delightful Sadie’s Bistro. Residents, such as cultural worker Matjamela Motloung, emphasise the distinctive character of this community.

“I always tell people that I live in the ‘mining district’ and not in town!” he laughs, highlighting how upper Marshalltown stands apart from the traditional hustle and bustle of “town”.

Joburg city The bronze impala fountain outside 44 Main Street. (Photo: Bridget Hilton-Barber)

Bridget Hilton-Barber, a writer and photojournalist, recently joined an Urban Renewal Tour as part of the inaugural Design Week JHB, organised by the inner-city initiative Jozi My Jozi and led by Stephen du Preez. Her reflections reveal aspects of Johannesburg often overlooked.

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“I was especially taken by the walk around Marshalltown... home to corporate headquarters, government buildings and the Maharishi Invincibility Institute,” she notes.

“It was also profoundly lovely to see the leaping impala fountain outside 44 Main Street, which is such a quintessentially South African story. This iconic bronze statue of a series of leaping impalas was originally in Oppenheimer Park between President and Pritchard streets, but by the 1990s was vandalised and sold for scrap. Now it stands proudly downtown, in a district that has been renewed.

“We strolled around Gandhi Square and along Marshall Street, Main Road and Fox Street. It was impeccably clean, guarded by security personnel, pedestrianised in parts, shaded by trees and adorned with artworks. It felt chic and sophisticated.”

Read more: Joburg CBD is slowly shaking off its ‘hellhole’ status — thanks to the private sector

Marshalltown’s polished and art-filled district serves as a microcosm of transformation in Johannesburg, showcasing the potential for renewal throughout the city. The area’s clean streets, thoughtfully restored architecture and inviting spaces challenge the long-held perception of Johannesburg as merely a gritty urban landscape.

The Marshalltown building. (Photo: Bridget Hilton-Barber)

With pedestrian-friendly walkways merging heritage sites and modern amenities, Marshalltown exemplifies how strategic revitalisation can foster safety, pride and a renewed sense of community.

If this model were replicated throughout Jozi, it could cultivate a city that honours its rich history while embracing urban renewal.

Motloung envisions a future where safety and cleanliness extend throughout the inner city. He recounts his experiences navigating it on foot.

“I can walk to and from my home to the Market Theatre at night, due to a combination of calculated bravery and stupidity,” he admits, describing his route past Sci-Bono, the Indian and Arab communities around Diagonal Street and the high court. He emphasises that these areas are well lit and lively, with children playing cricket on the street after dark. Cricket on the street!

Gandhi Square is now safe and clean. (Photo: Bridget Hilton-Barber)

“If the rest of the inner city could emulate this, we’d go a long way,” he adds, underscoring the potential of a cleaner, brighter Johannesburg to reshape its identity.

Read more: Downtown is looking up – Joburg inner-city projects bring work and hope to its young residents

Du Preez, founder of Localabode and proud partner of Jozi My Jozi, channels his passion for Johannesburg into urban tours that put the spotlight on some of the city’s oft-overlooked aspects. Leading groups through areas including Gandhi Square and the Carlton Centre, Du Preez aims to challenge prevailing perceptions.

“The aim of tour tours is to show people that there are many sides to Johannesburg,” he explains, emphasising the city’s historical depth and hidden heritage.

“It has a lot of potential, and we want to show people the history and heritage that this city has to offer.”

His tours aim to inspire a renewed appreciation for Johannesburg’s identity, encouraging both locals and visitors to see the city as a place of pride, compelling stories and enduring legacy. DM

Kulani Nkuna is a freelance writer.

This story first appeared in our weekly Daily Maverick 168 newspaper, which is available countrywide for R35.

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