What’s cooking today: Durban Mutton Curry

Durban Curry is not one specific recipe that must be strictly adhered to; It’s more of a method than a precise list of exactly what must go into it. There’s no fun for the cook in that anyway; we’re best guided with a curry than given exact instructions down to the last 17.8 grams of elaichi seeds. That’s cardamom, by the way.

There are a few things it does have:

Ideally you want a proper Durban masala mixed by a lady in a spice shop who knows what she’s doing (they all do).

Cooking oil (rather than coconut oil or ghee).

Plenty of tomato.

Garlic and ginger.

An array of spices: These vary but generally include cumin, turmeric, fennel, cinnamon, mustard seeds, fenugreek, cardamom, often curry leaves, sometimes asafoetida.

Cubed potatoes usually feature, though I generally don’t use them.

For more thoughts on Durban curry, have a look at this piece I wrote in 2022.

The mutton I used was a mix of ribs (in small chunks), neck slices, cubed leg and sundry other bits. It’s good to include some bones and fat, as both add a lot to the curry’s flavour and texture.

This curry fed a table of 12, with enough left over for the kitchen crew and yet more that was refrigerated overnight. So, divide it down to suit your own needs.

(Serves a crowd)

Ingredients

Sunflower oil, about ⅓ cup

3 kg mutton pieces

Curry powder to coat (about 4 Tbsp)

3 large onions, chopped

4 Tbsp garlic-ginger paste

3 or 4 heaped Tbsp good masala (Durban style, not Cape Malay)

3 cinnamon sticks

3 bay leaves

3 star anise

1 Tbsp fennel seeds

1 Tbsp fenugreek seeds

A few cardamom pods

1 tsp each of ground cumin, turmeric, coriander

A handful dried or fresh curry leaves

3 red chillies, chopped (yes, seeds and all)

8 large tomatoes, chopped

Water to cover

Salt to taste (no pepper)

Method

Coat the meat in masala and braise in hot oil.

Remove the meat to a side bowl, including the juices.

Add more oil and braise the onions. Add the garlic and ginger and braise for a few minutes more.

Add the extra masala and spices, seeds and leaves. Stir.

Salt fairly well but don’t get carried away; you can always add more later but you can’t take it out.

Add the tomatoes, curry leaves and chillies, stir, bring to a simmer and cook for a few minutes.

Add the mutton back, and water to cover.

Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, put a lid on and leave it to cook until the meat is tender, at least two hours. Taste and decide if it needs more salt.

I made it a day ahead, cooled it to room temperature and refrigerated it overnight. If doing so, bring it back to room temperature the next day, spoon off the excess fat that has risen to the top, and reheat it slowly until hot.

Serve with steamed basmati rice, poppadoms (commercial, cooked to the packet instructions) and carrot sambal (grated carrot with chopped onion, tomato, chilli and dhania, with salt and white vinegar). Or run up some garlic-coriander naan. DM

Tony Jackman is Galliova Food Writer 2023, jointly with TGIFood columnist Anna Trapido.

Follow Tony Jackman on Instagram @tony_jackman_cooks.

This dish is photographed on a pan plate by Mervyn Gers Ceramics.