'You have to start with unbelievable intensity' – All Blacks braced for 'feral' Ellis Park reception

Caleb Clarke of NZ tacked by Lukhanyo Am of the Springbok during The Rugby Championship match between South Africa and New Zealand at Emirates Airline Park on August 13, 2022 in Johannesburg, South Africa. (Photo by Lee Warren/Gallo Images/Getty Images)

By Craig Ray

28 Aug 2024

There are few better rugby stadiums in the world – and when the Springboks meet the All Blacks in that concrete cocoon, the temperature rises to levels that genuinely make your hairs stand on end.

Most South Africans with an interest in rugby know that Ellis Park is not situated in the best part of town and that the mean Doornfontein streets around the great sporting cathedral are best not walked alone.

Harrowing stories of muggings and attempted muggings before and after matches are commonplace, although for big Tests there is a much stronger security presence.

Samson Taukei'aho of New Zealand during their Rugby Championship match against South Africa at Emirates Airline Park (previously Ellis Park) on 13 August 2022 in Johannesburg, South Africa. (Photo: Lee Warren / Gallo Images / Getty Images)

Inside the Ellis Park precinct though, there are few better rugby stadiums in the world – and when the Springboks meet the All Blacks in that concrete cocoon, the temperature rises to levels that genuinely make your hairs stand on end.

Yes, the park is no longer state-of-the-art, but the seats and views, the atmosphere and regularly perfect weather make it a once-in-a-lifetime event for the uninitiated.

Venue seethes with vitriol

The venue seethes with vitriol towards the visiting team, even more so when that team is decked all in black and has a silver fern on the chest.

Projectiles hitting the New Zealand bus, and fans pounding in the side of the vehicle as it snakes down Joe Slovo Drive, past Ponte that becomes Sivewright Avenue, before a final left into Currey Street towards the Ellis Park gates, are common.

“Even the bus trip is pretty feral on the way in, to be fair,” said All Blacks forwards coach Jason Ryan this week. “So, we will probably have to do a little bit of work on that.

“There are a few (hand) signals going on, and a few empty cans coming towards the window and that sort of thing.

“But I think, in all honesty, it is coming from a good place, you know. It is a hell of a rivalry, the Springboks and All Blacks. As much as they want to beat us, there is a good amount of respect there, I feel. I know there is from us, and we look forward to that. Yeah, I just can’t wait for it, to be fair.”

Intimidating?

It’s intimidating for sure, but in the professional era the All Blacks have handled the journey and the frothing atmosphere inside the stadium well.

Overall, the Boks and All Blacks have met 15 times at the venue, with New Zealand winning six. Five of those wins have come in the post-isolation period that started in 1992. The Boks have “only” beaten the All Blacks five times in 10 post-isolation meetings at Ellis Park.

The All Blacks have an excellent record at Ellis Park, having won three of the last four visits that have taken place in the past two decades. Two of those wins, in 2013 and 2015, were achieved by perhaps the greatest sports team of all time.

Read more: Versatile Pieter-Steph du Toit set to be Bok enforcer against formidable All Blacks

From the beginning of the 2010 international season to their Rugby World Cup 2019 semifinal loss against England, the All Blacks played 131 Tests and won 115, with only 12 defeats and four draws for an 88% winning ratio.

All Blacks forwards coach Jason Ryan says the team are braced for a hostile reception, but looking forward to the crunch match. (Photo: Hannah Peters / Getty Images)

They won the World Cup twice, and 18 World Cup games in a row. They beat the Boks at Ellis Park twice, and they also beat the Boks twice at FNB Stadium – in 2010 and 2012 – and they also won at Loftus in 2018. The Kiwis don’t mind the highveld.

In the past decade the Boks have only won once on the highveld against the All Blacks – a 27-25 win at Ellis Park in 2014 that needed a last-minute Pat Lambie penalty from halfway to seal the victory.

In that period – 2010-2019 – and even earlier, New Zealand’s players were regular visitors to South Africa, and the highveld in particular, through their Super Rugby participation. That is no longer the case.

Psychological strains

The southern hemisphere provincial tournament prepared New Zealanders for the physiological strains of the highveld’s thin air and for the mental demands of Jozi’s uniquely aggressive atmosphere.

But things have changed and the All Blacks team is no longer stacked with regular South African visitors. The last time they met at Ellis Park in 2022, they still had a large contingent of survivors from their golden decade.

This time there are only a handful of All Blacks with Test match experience on the highveld.

Caleb Clarke of New Zealnd is tacked by Springbok Lukhanyo Am at Emirates Airline Park on 13 August 2022 in Johannesburg, South Africa. (Photo: Lee Warren / Gallo Images / Getty Images)

A veteran such as Sam Cane will play a big part in preparing the youngsters in the team about what to expect.

“One of the great things about this environment is setting young guys up to succeed so they can just go out and embrace it, and play,” Ryan said of the All Blacks’ mindset.

“(Lock) Sam Darry has made the most of his opportunity, too. Some younger boys that are all trending up in their game, as long as they can play free and play with a lot of physicality and a clear mind, it is a simple formula.

“Against the Springboks, you almost need to be desperate before you need to be. You have got to start with an unbelievable intensity.” DM

Take the train to Ellis Park

By Daily Maverick reporter

If you’re one of the thousands of people who have bought a ticket to the Boks vs All Blacks banger at Ellis Park, getting there won’t be a hassle.

For months, the struggling city of Johannesburg has strapped on its boots to get things Spring cleaned for the 31 August Test.

The Jozi my Jozi project, a corporate-city-civil-society partnership, has worked day and night to spruce up the east of the city that has fallen into disrepair and often mayhem.

With a plan to clean from Hillbrow to the Ellis Park precinct and into Bertrams, Pikitup has brought in graders and staff to clear the dumps that are an eyesore.

Gautrain has partnered with Prasa to offer a transport plan we tested, and that works seamlessly. Jump in at any Gautrain station and get off at Park Station (it may need a train change, but it’s really easy).

At Park Station follow the signs to the Metro line and get on a train to Ellis Park stadium. You’ll be there in three minutes, walk down the stairs and into the stadium.

The commuter rail agency, Prasa, worked to have the station ready for the game.

Transport Minister Barbara Creecy said at the test ride that this inter-modal transport was the holy grail of public mobility. If you still want to take a minibus taxi, park and ride or ride-hail, Ellis Park manager George Stainton says they have had 13 meetings with Gauteng taxi associations.

There will be shuttle taxis from Eastgate and St Johns in Houghton, while the taxi associations are also providing their squad cars on patrol.

The area will be blanketed by security, he says. Joburg is set to put on a good show, and the wider city should benefit from the changes made to impress the rugby stars.

Parking at St Johns is R50 and about R10 at Eastgate.

Metro line is free to ticket-holders.

Categories:

Tags:

DM is much better if you are signed in...

South Africa

Venue seethes with vitriol

Intimidating?

Psychological strains