Forti: No Miser in the Kitchen

The past few years have seen some dramatic changes. In 2017, as he celebrated his half century, he made the portentous decision to close Ristorante Ritrovo – regarded as South Africa’s first proper fine dining Italian restaurant which he opened with his father Giovanni in 1995 – and start a new venture, Forti’s at Time Square on Menlyn.

He also took delivery of his dream car, a new Porsche, which he says was his “midlife non-crisis present to himself. Menoporsche. The thinking man’s hot flush!”

It’s hardly surprising that Forti named the restaurant after himself. Like Ritrovo before it, Forti’s is probably one of the country’s most personality driven establishments. There is an indescribable X factor around restaurants with relatable human personalities and this place has it in abundance. The food is marvellous but part of the overall experience is being enveloped in Mazzone’s exuberant personality.

He describes the eatery as “contemporary Italian, served in a fine dining environment without the pageantry”. However, as return patrons, who inevitably become friends can attest to, you can expect theatricality.

Mazzone has a Licentiate for opera which is why he often breaks into an impromptu operatic performance for guests. It’s the icing on the whole Forti experience.

While there’s a substantial Italian focused menu, if Forti is in the house, which he usually is, you would do well to opt for his endorsement of the day. In fact, let him take charge and order for you. You won’t regret it.

The antipasto is delicious – from an artisanal charcuterie and cheese board to Buffalo Mozzarella served with gently seared spinach, black truffle and anchovy butter dressing. If you are an offal-type of girl (which I am) the lamb kidneys served in a cream and marsala wine sauce being back memories of childhood.

Next course has to be one of the home-made pastas but leave space for the trio of oven-roasted prawns which is one of the restaurant’s signature dishes and a tribute to Forti’s beloved father Giovanni who originally devised the dish and started serving it back in 1976. Succulent prawns are roasted in the oven with MCC (bubbly), garlic and butter and served over a creamy Parmesan risotto.

There is a great selection of meat cuts including Wagyu rib eye and Forti’s take on a Chateaubriand for two served with a Bearnaise sauce. To accompany your meat – duck fat roasted potatoes that a crispy outside with a fluffy inside.

For the man himself simplicity is key – most meals use only four to five of the best ingredients he can source. For Forti, good food shouldn’t be fussy and complicated.

There’s an extensive award-winning wine list which also features his own wine, Nick and Forti’s produced by Saronsberg. The collaboration with Saronsberg owner Nick van Huyssteen and winemaker Dewaldt Heyns led to the Nick and Forti Epicentre 2005 winning the Old Mutual Trophy. Today about 22 000 bottles are produced with a range that includes a white blend, Bordeaux-style blend and Shiraz.